Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Khmer Country - Exploring Phnom Penh and Siem Reap - Part 3

The overnight bus journey was extremely cold. Wearing shorts and slippers is a no no. I wondered what was I thinking taking an overnight bus wearing minimal clothing especially near the leg area. My balls were literally freezing themselves off.

The bus occasionally stopped along the road side for people to answer mother nature's call. Hard time for the girls I'd imagine. Around  7 hours later we arrived back in the capital in the wee hours of the morning and our guide was already there waiting for us at the bus station. He took us back to our budget hotel which costs around USD 15 for the night. We also got to check in early and freshen up before we continued to explore the city.

The rules.
These were the rules imposed at Tuol Seng Political Prison. This madhouse was a former school that was converted by the military into a torture encampment. Prisoners that were brought in were usually detained without reason. If there was any reason it would only be that they were a threat to the regime. Doctors, teachers, government servants you name it. Those that were considered educated were thrown in here for torturing and suspected for treason. From books I read and from the places I visited, it was either you were thrown in prison, or sent to work hard labour in the countryside until you died. Either way you were screwed.

Entry into the prison was around USD3, and how depressing the money was spent. In the prison, they displayed pictures of the original condition of each room when the prison was first uncovered after the regime had ended.
before
after
prisoners of tuol seng
prisoners counting months inside
cell block
Being inside the prison was a really depressing but humbling experience. The amount of suffering these Cambodians had to go through. Really makes you appreciate your life more and stops you from bitching about all these small petty things in life.

Based on information displayed in the prison, there were only 10 survivors from this prison. And they survived by luck. When Vietnam was invading Cambodia, the last 10 were already on a truck on their way to the killings fields. Only by chance did the transport lorry got attacked and the remaining prisoners managed to escape. 7 of the survivors had already passed away due to old age. 2 are now working as lorry drivers. 1 of the survivors is now working in the former prison to educate and share his experiences with visitors to the Tuol Seng prison.


mr survivor (showing himself in the picture)
 Mr survivor has lost most of his hearing and eyesight on the left side due to being electrocuted through his ear during his time of capture. Most of his fingernails have been pulled out during the torturing process. He was merely a lorry driver during the time of capture. Without warning he was took from his family and brought to the prison for interrogation and suspect of being a rebel.

He was forced to build his own cell with his bare hands and was given just one small box for him to shit and pee in. If the guards found his floor dirty with his shit, he was forced to lick it clean by the guards.

You could really see the pain in his eyes when he tried to relate his story to us. All the suffering he had endured just because he was suspected and never tried as a opposition member.




Prisoners were then brought to the infamous killing fields to be executed. As the name suggests, it was merely a field were mass executions and murders were conducted by the Junta. The killing went on until the extent of killing the whole family, including babies, as they feared that if not killed now, when grown up these babies would take revenge for their families.

Babies were smashed into trees, shattering the skulls. They were also thrown in the air and would fall on the soldier's bayonets. Adults were lined up behind each other so that only one bullet would only be used to execute them. Heads were sawed off using palm trees bark, all inhumanely methods to end a human life.

When the regime had ended and the new government had taken over, hundreds of mass graves were uncovered around the killing fields. There were so many graves that the government had uncovered, they stopped halfway and just sealed off the entry.


fragments of teeth between the trees





Stupa@tower with the skulls that were uncovered


Full view of the Stupa with the skulls inside

After visiting the Tuol Seng prison and the killing fields, we headed back to the hotel and started to head for the 'Central Market' (which was just in front of our hotel) for some souvenir hunting. We also headed to Russian Market as well. The name Russian Market came about because during the 1980's, the soviets liked to come to the market to shop. Both markets sell similar items, jewellery, cloths, shirts, etc. Prices are considered quite cheap and also depending on your bargaining skills.

Please also take note that for muslim travelers, there is a muslim restaurant located somewhere near the waterfront. Must try dish : the snakehead soup @ sup ikan toman. Costs around USD3 per serving.

Nightlife in Phnom Penh is mainly similar to most towns that are filled with expats. Bars, irish pubs, ice cream parlours, etc. Nothing spectacular and most of the pubs are filled with both locals and expats just looking for a good night out.

Cambodia is famous for its underage sex tourism. I do not condone this disgusting exploitation. Please help spread the word to stop this act of violence against children.

All in all my expenses cost around USD150+ (RM400+) for the whole 4 days in Cambodia. A country worth traveling to simply to admire the stunning and mysterious temples in Siem Reap or the humbling experiences which brings you back down to earth in Phnom Penh. Too bad didn't have ample time to travel to more remote locations such as Sihanoukville. Maybe next time. Maybe next time.










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