Khmer Country - Exploring Phnom Penh and Siem Reap

Before I start rambling about my travels to Cambodia, let me share some general information about the country. Cambodia is bordered by Thailand, Laos and Vietnam and the country's population is estimated around 15 million. Only recently in 1993 that the Country was reunited back under the ruling monarchy. Like its predecessor Vietnam, the country has been at war most of the time. The French ruling, the Vietnam War and then the Khmer Rouge ruling. Since the end of the Khmer Rouge ruling, the country has been slowly rebuilding back its foundations from scratch and is now currently expanding and progressing economically by an astonishing average of 6% every year. The main currency used is Cambodian Riels and the exchange rate is about 1USD = 4,000 KHR. Also keep in mind that USD is also an acceptable currency in Cambodia.

There has always been a magical element attached to Cambodia. Either being lost in wonder inside the vast mazes of temples in Siem Reap, or experiencing death at the killing fields in Phnom Penh, the stories that the country portrays are both heartbreaking yet inspiring at the same time and can be one of the most humbling experiences you can experience.

Day 1 :
Me and a group of friends took an early flight from KL and reached Phnom Penh International Airport around 9am. The flight took around 2-3 hours from KL. Arriving in Phnom Penh's airport was just as expected. Airport looked quite shabby and a bit run downed. It kinda looked like the Penang Airport before it was renovated. After going through customs and having my bag opened for random checks (I don't understand why this always happens to me), we re-grouped back at the exit hall of the airport and were to make our way to Siem Reap by bus. On the way out of the airport, we were greeted by our native language. Some one actually greeted us in Malay. Hahaha something we didn't quite expect, in Cambodia. The random guy who greeted us was actually a taxi operator there and used to come to Malaysia during his younger days to learn Islam. He is the head of the mosque in his village and is accustomed to bringing Malaysian travellers around Phnom Penh due to his familiarity with the Malay language. Later on I learned that most of the Muslims in Phnom Penh can actually speak the basic Malay. We told him of our plan that we would be going to Siem Reap first for two days and then only be coming back to Phnom Penh for another two days. If you're wondering why we didn't book our flight to Siem Reap, because the air fare was way cheaper going to Phnom Penh at that time. So there.

The 'ustaz' made some calls and told us that his friend would meet us in Siem Reap. He then asked his friend at the airport to send us to the bus stop because he had to pick other people somewhere else.
The 6 of us squeezed into one small tut-tut and made the 20 minutes journey to the bus stop. Please note that Phnom Penh does not have a centralized bus stop. Different bus companies would depart from different areas. Usually most of the taxi and tut-tut drivers would know which station to drop you off at.

One thing I noticed, unlike Saigon, Phnom Penh actually has a lot more cars on the roads. Like all tut-tut drivers around the world, ours was no exception at being skilled in weaving through traffic, occasionally banging other cars, going up dividers, stopping in the middle of the road just to cool the engine, etc. It was all worth the RM2 I paid. Hahahaha.

After making our way to the bus stop, we headed to the counter and proceeded to buy the 6 hour bus journey to Siem Reap. The ticket was around RM20. The next bus would be around 2 pm and since it was only 10 in the morning, we decided to explore the area just to kill time. While we just started walking, the ustaz from the airport showed up out of no where with his van. After telling him of our bus time, he suggested that he could drop us off at the Phnom Penh's Waterfront area for free and we could board the same bus which would also pass through there. Since we really had nothing to do, it seemed like the best plan at that moment.

Choosing the right back pack 101

Choosing your first backpack/rucksack is somewhat like buying your first car. You really don't want to spend to much money on it, yet you really don't want to regret your choice later on.

First things first, not all packs will suite your body, unless your built like Ryan Reynolds which everything should look good on you and fits you well. It really comes down to comfort, since most of the time you'll be logging your pack everywhere, might as well find something that is comfortable and has proper back support, so you won't end up looking like this by the end of your travels :

When choosing your backpack, you always need to keep in mind the 3 rules of thumb :

1. Length of travel
2. Style of backpack
3. Body type (height usually doesn't matter, your torso does)

1. Length of travel:
From my experience, the ideal backpack for a 1-2 day travel would be around 20-35L. 3-5 days would be 40-50L. More than 5 days the ideal backpack size should be 60L and above. But this also depends of how you travel. If your the type that can just recycle your shirts a few times, wears the same underwear a few times, then most probably you can be considered a 'light traveler'. Light travelers tend to minimize things to bring and leave space for souvenirs to be brought home, etc. I've seen people going on a 6 days trip and only bring a 20L backpack. The less the better.

If you consider yourself as a light traveler, then you could consider downsizing your backpack size a little bit. If your the type of traveler that must have your laptop all the time with you, change clothes everyday, then by all means you should get a bigger pack. If you plan to bring your own food, etc also you would need to consider your backpack size as well. Really comes down to how you usually travel.

You would also need to consider the places your traveling to. If your going to cold places which need more thick clothing, you would also need to consider the size of your backpack.

I myself have three backpacks. One 70L North Face which I use for more than 10 days of traveling, a 50L Karrimor which I just bought, and a 30L Camel backpack which I normally use for 1-10 days of travelling.

I suggest everybody to have at least two backpacks. One for the short travels and one for the long haul travels.


2. Style of backpack:
Usually retailers have two major types of backpacks : travel packs and hiking packs.
I tend to notice that most travelers like to use hiking packs (me, being one of them) as it is more convenient, looks more stylish and a lot more choices to choose from.

Travel packs are usually quite compact and sturdy as compared to hiking packs as they are built for easiness during travelling as they do not take up much space on flights, buses and you won't usually get stuck between doors like you usually do with hiking/normal backpacks. This is mainly due to the more slimmer frame and usually thicker material which minimizes the bulkiness even when fully loaded. These travel packs usually come with detachable daypacks.

These are such examples of travel packs by Deuter (pronounced Doiter) and Karrimor (pronounced Karrimor. Hahaha) :

Hiking packs are usually what most people prefer because there is a lot more choices you can find around and looks waaaay more cooler carrying around a hiking pack rather than a travel pack.

These hiking packs have more open space to chuck things in rather than having compartments like travel packs but will have unnecessary attachments which would only be useful if you are going hiking or camping.  The material is usually slightly thinner than travel packs to save on weight but will compromise your pack's durability. Carrying around a travel pack may look way cooler than a travel pack but usually would be a hassle especially if your in a crowded area such as buses,trains etc as your bulky pack would be prone to say hello to other people's faces.

It does look cool though

Remember that backpacks are different from your normal luggage bags. You will be carrying it around most of the time and not pulling it around. Usually will have clips rather than zips, so always keep in mind that most probably you won't be able to lock your bag. Therefore always keep your valuables with you. Rather you loose your clothes than losing your passport in Ukraine.

Here are a few types of hiking packs:

3. Torso measurement:
How to roughly measure your torso is from your lower neck right until your back arch. The following sizes of backpacks should be as follows :

Men's and Women's
Pack Size	Torso Length
Extra small	Up to 15½"
Small	16" to 17½"
Medium/Regular	18" to 19½"
Large/Tall	20"+

Your pack must also have a nice grip on your hips so it won't wobble around too much when your making your way.

Waist size is not really so important as most bags will have adjustable waist grips that can be adjusted to fit your waist nicely. Just remember that more than 80% of the weight should be supported by your hips, and not your back. So please remember to choose your bag that fits your body frame nicely or else you will look like this:

Okay I'm sorry I'm being mean. I just wanted to make a point.

The modern age has also changed the way backpacks are designed and built. A lot of backpacks now come with a lot of improvements to ease the burden of carrying it around such as fitting in aluminium bars which go on the side, support straps, adjustable straps, lightweight materials etc. Don't worry so much about this though, just make sure the pack fits comfortably and you'll be fine.

There are also backpacks that are tailored for women and children as well.

A number of good and reliable brands that I would recommend are:

• The North Face 
• Deuter
• Jack Wolfskin 
• Karrimor
• High Sierra
• Osprey 
• Millet
• Mountainsmith

Normally a lot of shopping outlets with a sports section will sell backpacks although I've noticed that most will sell Deuter as it is one of the most famous brands around.

Two good places that I would suggest if you're looking for backpacks/rucksacks :

1. Madam Sia's backpacks - Located at Pertama Complex, First Floor. A lot of choices and all are original. If I'm not mistaken 'replicas' are also sold for a cheaper price. The auntie is really helpful and you'll be like a kid in a candy store. Always ask for extra discounts. Brands sold : Karrimor, Deuter, Osprey.  
2. Backpacks Heaven - Small shop located at Rasta TTDI. Limited choices, but will have a catalog if you want to make an order. Prices also are not too bad as they buy straight from suppliers. Other accessories such as flight covers, waist pouches also are available. Please click here for their website.

I am in no way affiliated with these retailers, I'm only spreading the love around.

Backpacks Heaven, TTDI*

Madam Sia's Backpack Shop*

Uuuuuuuuu...*

*i do not own these images.took them off the internet

I myself personally prefer the Karrimor brand as the designs are quite nice to look at and is usually cheaper than other brands. The brand has also been around since 1947 and is quite reputable around the world.

Conclusion:
Choosing between a hiking pack or travel pack is like choosing a wife. A travel pack will wash your clothes, feed you well and will listen to your problems day in day out. Except that the sex will be boring.
Travel packs on the other hand will give you the time of your life, give you the best sex ever, but will never be wife material. Either way you'll still win.

Choose wisely and travel safe!

Pre 2009 : Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam) - part 2

Vung Tau
From Saigon it was then a 100+km journey by bus to Vung Tau, one of the coastal cities in the southern area of Vietnam. Can't quite remember how much was the bus fare and the only thing I remember that it took around 3 hours to reach there. I left Saigon slightly in the evening and only reached Vung Tau around night time and how disappointed I was with the place. Okay maybe it was the monsoon season and maybe I was a bit cranky because I was sleepy, but there really was nothing to do. There was nothing nice to eat, nothing spectacular about the beach, no bikini babes, nothing. Maybe I expected a little too much from this place.

On the good side, not a lot of tourists stopped by here and it was kind of relaxing place to be. An escape from the madness of Ho Chi Minh. You can literally roll yourself on the road without having to worry about being run over by some crazy lorry driver like you would in the capital. This would be the ideal place for your retirement home where you grow old with your Vietnamese mail to order bride and have 12 kids and have a perfectly boring life.

Here are some pics from around Vung Tau :

No bikini babes or sunbathing hotties

Con artist #1 and #2

Con artist #2

Con artist #1 again

Itwasthisempty.

The beach hotel.

The Saigon River Cruise @ Mekong Delta
After 2 nights in Vung Tau, it was back to Saigon again.

After arriving back in Saigon, the first thing I did the following morning was to go on the river cruise on Saigon River. Included in the cruise is a visit to a small fishing village along the river.

From the pier you will cruise along the murky river for around 20 mins and eventually they will take you into a small fishing village (can't really remember the name) along the banks of the river where you get off and walk through a barrage of coffee shops and souvenir stalls. As Vietnam is also famous for its coffee, I sat down in one of the coffee shops and ordered an iced coffee. Not disappointed at all.

As I sat down, a group of Vietnamese children and teenagers (the teenage girls were pretty, and no I don't condone pedophilia) started to perform by singing and dancing and tried to rip me off by selling me some overpriced small souvenirs. After the show ended, I didn't buy anything but gave a few cents to the kids (which I think included some Malaysian cents as well). Hey don't judge me. Its better than nothing right?

Notice how its always the 'peace' sign.

After you walk through the coffee shops and souvenir stalls and endless begging, eventually at the end of the road, you'll stumble upon a small river whereby the locals will take you by a paddling boat that will take you through a shallow mangrove forest and back to the entrance of the village. From here on you will board the normal boat back to the pier.

The small river that they will take you on is so shallow that you actually get down from the boat and walk towards the mouth of the river. Its only up to your ankles. Nevertheless, having paid for the entry, I deserve to sit on the boat and be paddled by some frail old woman/man through the shallow river. Luckily I was considered not so fat at that time. Just imagine how would it be if the old lady had to paddle through the river on a tiny boat with an extra 'large size' family with kids that only know how to spell Bigmacs. Towards the end of the river (around 10 minutes), it eventually gets deeper and will finally join back the Saigon River. From here you will board the same boat you came from and depart back to the pier.

Cu Chi Tunnels
Then it was off to one of the main attractions in the whole of Vietnam, the Cu Chi Tunnels. The tunnels was one of the main underground networks used by the Vietcong during the war as a military base of operations and hiding spots during the war. The tunnels were also used for communication and supply routes, as well as living quarters for the guerilla army. The vast network of tunnels were approx. 121km long. (Thanks Wikipedia for the info).

Some of the tunnels have actually been widened to accommodate tourists and are quite safe to go in. The guides around the area can also speak understandable English and would be quite helpful in explaining the history behind the tunnels. It really was a claustrophobic experience wandering around in the tunnels and makes you wonder how these soldiers actually lived and had children down here for a few years during the duration of the war. This is a must go place to visit if you're in Saigon.

'Tadaaa'

Muka 'sohai'

The City of Saigon
Being under the rule of the French for quite some time, Christianity played a major influence in most of the structures around Saigon. The city is also built in quite a way that you could almost assume that if Napoleon had made love to Columbus, Saigon would be the bastard child. The city has assimilated itself in both the French and American cultures through its lifestyles and structures. It is simply an amazing city to experience.

Due to the insurgence of expatriates in Vietnam, you can always expect a good night life here in Saigon. A lot of clubs, bars, agogo bars cater for foreigners as well as locals. Drinks are cheap, cover charges are cheap. This makes all the bars and clubs filled mostly with foreigners and less locals. By asking around I finally found out that there are some clubs and bars that the locals usually go to as they try to avoid places with a lot of foreigners. Girls can be taken back with the price around 300k Dong which is equivalent to around RM100 (I asked a girl on the street, and no I did not take up the deal in case you were wondering). Known as the 'butterflies of the night' by the locals, please beware that there are cases whereby the girl leaves with your wallet or gets some people to beat you up and steal your stuff once you've entered the hotel. One thing I also noticed was that these butterflies would also work in the daytime, soliciting services from men in broad daylight as well.

Some other pictures taken around the city :

The only mosque in Saigon if I'm not mistaken

For the final night our group had dinner once again on the Saigon River. Except for this time, it was in style. We had dinner on a cruise boat with a house band playing some good music. The food was just normal and had nothing really appealing about it.

The cruise took around approximately 2 hours to finish. Finally, the end of my Saigon trip had ended. The following morning I would be on a flight back home and back to reality.

How would I sum up Saigon? Beneath all the craziness and madness of the city, there is this fine layer of serenity and appeal  that would always make you want to return again, just for the coffee. It is a city that breathes excitement everywhere you go, so be sure to jump in head first with questions asked later.